If you’re old enough, you may remember when there was only one health food store in town and squishy white bread was the order of the day.

Organic food still comprises only about two percent of American groceries, but sales have been growing at a 20 percent annual rate since 1990. There are now more than 9,000 health food stores in the United States, and the words “healthy,” “natural” and “organic” pop out at you from the aisles of nearly every supermarket. Most of these are marketing terms, of course, and a consumer must examine the label carefully to determine whether the item truly is a healthy choice.

What is Organic?

“Organic,” on the other hand, has a specific meaning, based on U.S. Department of Agriculture standards implemented in mid-2002. Any food labeled organic must be raised on farmland which has been free of synthetic pesticides and herbicides for at least three years. Farm animals must not have been given antibiotics or growth hormones. And the crops must not be genetically engineered, irradiated nor fertilized with sewage sludge.

Health food advocates believe that food raised according to organic standards is not only safer and more nutritious but tastes better and promotes a healthier environment. Organic foods are usually more expensive, however, and there are legitimate questions about whether they are safer or worth the extra price.

The idea that the best food is whole, natural and unprocessed generally meets with the approval of dietitians. In refining flour and rice, for example, manufacturers strip away most of the nutrients and fiber. “Enriched” on the label indicates that vitamins and minerals have been added back...but usually only a fraction of those removed. The label will also reveal how much sodium, sugar, additives and preservatives have been added during processing.

Additives and Preservatives

Often designated by initials such as BHA or BHT, these additives seem more ominous than they may actually be. Some are vitamin fortifiers; others prevent or slow spoilage or changes in color or texture during shipping or storage. Any substance that has been proven to increase the lifetime risk of cancer by more than 1 in a million is prohibited by federal law. Critics say, however, that many additives have not been subjected to sufficient testing.

The ideal, health food advocates claim, is to have food that is grown close to home and eaten fresh. Such foods are most likely to have good color, texture and flavor...without need for preservatives. Not all food grown close to home is free of pesticides and herbicides, of course. About 350 pesticides are permitted by law, and at least 70 of these are possibly or probably carcinogenic, according to the Environmental Protection Agency.

When conventionally grown foods are tested, about 50 percent of samples show pesticide residues, but officials say these are small enough to be insignificant to a person’s overall diet. Even organically grown produce often has pesticide residues, attributed to shifting winds and water runoff. So whether you eat organic foods or not, you should be sure to wash or peel all produce.

Conventional growers argue that they need all the help they can get in keeping yields high enough to meet market demands and make a profit.

But there is research showing that organic methods may actually increase agricultural yields. In laboratory studies, the fertility and overall health of animals given synthetic feed declined gradually over three generations but remained steady in those given organically grown feed. Chickens given organic food laid 25 percent more eggs than those given synthetic feed.

A joint project between the Australian AusAID agency and the Kenya Institute of Organic Farming increased crop yields by more than 60 percent by teaching farmers organic principles–how to prepare safe organic pesticides and composts and raise livestock without the use of synthetic feed, antibiotics or growth hormones. Growers who previously were below the subsistence level now grow surpluses which they sell through cooperatives.

Genetically engineered foods

Genetically engineered food is another matter. Through recombinant gene technology, it’s now possible to mass produce replicas of hormones and to create new strains of existing plants, such as tomatoes with a longer shelf life. A major step in this area came in 1993 when the FDA approved a genetically engineered growth hormone to be injected into cows to boost milk production. Studies indicated that the growth hormone does not alter the quality of the milk, and the American Medical Association and the American Dietetic Association say that it poses no health threat to humans. Cows injected with this growth hormone, on the other hand, are more vulnerable to udder infections and more likely to require antibiotics.

Since the time when genetically engineered hormones were approved, products containing genetically engineered ingredients have flooded the shelves of grocery stores–from baby formulas to soy burgers to tortilla chips.

The Food and Drug Administration does not consider these foods harmful and does not require that food labels disclose genetically engineered ingredients. Those who wish to avoid them have only one option: to buy organically grown food.

Irradiation

Another issue in food quality involves irradiation. Exposing food to gamma, beta or x-rays in a closed room has been found an effective way to kill insects, bacteria and other pests that might contaminate or cause early spoilage of food. The FDA has approved irradiation on fruits, vegetables, grains, poultry and spices. Fortunately, all irradiated foods, with the exception of spices, must display a special logo to inform the public they have been irradiated.

Proponents argue that the practice has been used for years to sterilize medical equipment and consumer products such as tampons and teething rings. Most scientists believe irradiation poses no danger to food and may be less harmful than other methods of sterilization.

As with other forms of sterilization, however, irradiation reduces vitamin and mineral content by 10 to 15 percent, and it can affect the odor, flavor, color and texture of some foods. Again, the organic label certifies that the food has not been irradiated.

What does it mean to choose organic?

Organically grown foods are relatively expensive and not guaranteed to be low in fat, sugar or sodium. They might be significantly safer. They may be healthier and more flavorful. But they are definitely certified to meet specific standards that are important to an increasing number of consumers.

Michelle Herbert, PharmD, CDE
Clinical Director, Richmond Apothecaries, Inc.